City of rocks - Jackson’s thumb
Posted by sibylle in Idaho (Saturday June 26, 2010 at 3:24 pm)

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Looking down form Jackson’s thumb

Toward the City of Rocks

Thumbelina - Bridger jack Mesa, Indian Creek
Posted by sibylle in utah (Sunday June 13, 2010 at 11:31 am)

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Thumbelina , the left-most tower of the Bridger Jacks

Thumbelina is so beautiful. I always wanted to climb this tower, but was worried about getting up the  hard 5.11  face climbing, which I doubted I could lead.

We did this route as two pitches, with me leading the first chimney pitch, above, to a belay on the chock stone. that worked out very well, as the lower part of the wall went  into the shade as Andrew lead pitch two, and I luckily stayed in the sun atop my perch on the chockstone.

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Andrew following pitch 1

The chimney is straightforward, but lacks protection, unless one carries very big gear.
One can climb Thumbelina as one long pitch,  but I’m glad we didn’t . I stayed warm, belaying in the sun on ridge, from where I admired the view to both sides of the Mesa. I had a much better view of Andrew climbing pith two, the crux face moves.

view from North Sixshooter
Posted by sibylle in utah (Wednesday June 2, 2010 at 4:53 pm)

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Looking toward the La Sal Mountains from the top of North Sixshooter

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Looking toward Canyonlands

It had been hot when we went up to climb Lightning Bolt Cracks,  and the forecast was for temperatures in the mid 80s or higher. We started our hike early - at 8:30, after a long drive on tortuous washes and a challenging road. Numerous times I got out to check the deep ravine ahead, that I was supposed to drive into; or I’d ask Andrew to check the road if it looked less serious.

It was my truck - and if I couldn’t get back out, it would be my towing bill, so I was very concerned for the road’s drivability.

It turned out ok, and we made it close to the base by 8:30; hiking in up with cooler temperatures.  It was so warm at the base, with a forecast of higher temperatures to come, so I left behind fleece and wind jacket.

Once we turned the corner on the last pitch (we ran pitch three all the way to the top), the wind howled and blew me around. There was no hope of hearing each other,  and getting blown sideways made the climbing only harder.

At the top, instead of enjoying the view, my only thought was to get off. I was cold already, and hadn’t been there long.

Andrew tied the rope ends to himself when rapelling down so that a stray wind gust wouldn’t grab them, pull them around the corner, and stuff them into a distant crack. I’d heard of that happening to climbers on El Cap, and the vision of losing my rope to the wind has haunted me since.

Once off the top, after two quick, short rappels (one 70-meter rope), I ran around to the front side, still in the sun, donned my fleece, and started munching on extra food and water.

The climb was great,  but it was sure nice to have water again.

North Sixshoooter, Indian Creek
Posted by sibylle in utah (Tuesday June 1, 2010 at 9:24 pm)

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Andrew on P1 , which gets wide at the top

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Pitch 1 is much wider near the top!

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Pitch 3 is fantastic!

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Looking down at the belay for  pitch 3.

After this, it’s around the corner and over the roof.

And then to the top in howling  winds!

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