Squamish- Right Wing, Slhany (the Squaw)
Posted by sibylle in Canada and PNW (Monday September 17, 2012 at 8:25 pm)

RW wall 1.jpg

Right Wing ascends the obvious dihedral in the middle;

the right-hand, lower, corner is Great Game

Photos by Andy Cairns

When we climbed Right Wing this August, it was the most strenuous and exhausting climb I’d done at Squamish.

RW p1.jpg

Pitch 1 finger / hand crack

The climb starts with an easy one (or two) pitch finger and hand crack, a climb of its own called ‘Eagles Domain’. Ironically, I couldn’t find the bolted belay at the top of this pitch - I looked right, I climbed up further, and then back down, looking for it, and finally belayed on a spacious ledge. After Andy climbed halfway up, I spied the anchors over to the left.

RW p2.jpg

Pitch 2, a fingery 10c sport pitch -

Coming off a good foothold, I couldn’t reach the best finger hold. I’m not that short - 5′7″,  so a short leader without fingers of steel may struggle here.  this pitch ended on a comfortable ledge — our last good rest for a while!

R wing p4.jpg

P3 - the long ‘Filibuster’ pitch

From this ledge, we embarked on the endless layback — move after move of pulling on burning arms, with hands about to go numb.

RW wall p 4-5.jpg

A climber on the first half of the ‘Filibuster’ pitch - pitch 3

Pitch 3 has  now been divided into two pitches, both very strenuous and demanding. I could not have done the two as one long pitch — not enough endurance.

RW 5 to GFL.jpg

Looking up at pitch 4 toward Godforsaken Land

When I thought I couldn’t go any further, the belay appeared — a  (very slippery) wooden plank, hanging from bolts like a swing.

Our next pitch - #4 - was no relief — but more laybacking,  with some chimney moves I thought I’d fall out of, as the crack leans so much.

RW : GFL 6.jpg

P5 - the last pitch of Godforsaken land

We opted to finish on the final pitch of Godforsaken land -   at 10c, a little less strenuous than the 10d pitch on Right Wing  - and, less overhanging. Still, it was strenuous. But it’s got a really cool move - you’re stemming between the corner and an arete, and then grab a small finger hold, let go of the corner, and lean right to move onto the arete. After that, it just remains pumpy.

r w p5.jpg

Last pitch - a steep hand traverse

I struggled on that last hand traverse — not much left in the fingers. I’ve concluded that I need to go sport climbing to improve my finger strength. so many of the Squamish climbs feature long, steep laybacks — and strong sport climbers can layback pretty well.  there’s not as many pure crack climbs here as in Yosemite, or the Sierra; the Squamish cracks tend more toward seams and layback.

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