Rock On, Squamish
Posted by sibylle in Canada and PNW (Saturday August 18, 2012 at 12:24 pm)

Rock On p1.jpg

Pitch 1 of Rock On

photos by Andy Cairns
During last week’s heat wave, we hiked  to Rock On, which remains shady most of the day.

Pitch one, shown above, starts with a tricky finger crack to a corner. I found laybacking  around the roof to be burly, but well-protected (I was glad of the #3 Camalot for the wide crack).

After this, I  stemmed the corner easily, until the next flake to layback around - but this one is easier and less strenuous than the first steep part.

rock on p3.jpg

Rock On, pitch 3

Pitch 3, though rated harder (5.9) than pitch 1 (5.8) felt less strenuous. It involves stemming a corner, jams, a chimney move, followed by a traverse left under a roof.  The traverse protected well with 0.5 to #1 Camalots - use long slings to avoid rope drag.

Andy led the crux pitch - the thin fingertip layback of pitch 4, which looks much harder to protect, since it leans quite a bit.

We chose to climb pitch 5 to the top, and rappel down to the Apron descent, but the climbers in front of us rappelled the route. The ledge above pitch 3 became very crowded then: I was there, plus the two climbers in front of us ( one of whom landed on my foot when rappelling); plus the guys who’d climbed “Hard On”, a two-pitch route to the same belay.  Yes - expect crowds: this is a (well-deserved) Top 100 climb!

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