At the top of “World’s Toughest Milkman”
photos by Andy Cairns
The new guide book to climbing at Squamish, British Columbia, “Squamish Select“, in addition to including routes new since the last published guidebook, also offers a “Top 100″ routes list.
As a long time, compulsive list-aholic, we’ve been ticking off some of the “top 100″ climbs (the ones that are easy enough that I may have a slight chance of getting up them. They include 5.13s on the top 100 list that I won’t be trying!)
After climbing Rock On, we were not yet completely exhausted — plus, the weather remained good (always an issue in Canada, or any high mountains), so we decided to drive to Murrin Park , a cragging area which sports over 50 short, mostly one-pitch climbs, several of which are on the Top 100 list.
Out first stop was the Milkman Wall, to climb “The World’s Toughest Milkman“, originally rated a sandbag 5.8, but upgraded in the new guidebook.
The route follows steep cracks and flakes to a bulge at the top - which, luckily for me, had a crack in it. I threw my foot up in the crack, and pulled myself up sideways – perhaps not standard sport technique, but, I had a top belay.
The climb’s as steep as the picture shows - but not that difficult, except for the exit move at the top.