The climb, “Flight Deck”, at Area 44
Photo by Andy Cairns
We recently visited Area 44 to climb several of the newly cleaned and bolted sport routes found here. We’d hoped that it would be quiet on a weekend, and instead were surprised to find many large groups of UBC students with ropes rigged on all the easier routes.
We opted to climb the only route in sight without a rope (or several climbers) on it - “Flight Deck”, rated 5.10b.
After struggling on the steeper parts of our “warm-up”, we went on to the easier climbs — Nuts and Bolts (5.6), Nuts and Raisins (5.7), and I’m Not Against It (5.8), to 5.10b (Monkey Barrel). Both of us found Nuts and Raisins (5.7) to be easier than Nuts and Bolts (5.6). Nuts and Bolts is very easy for most of the route, but has one technical move that’s quite thin, and a beginner may struggle on this move.
Next , we hiked up around the corner to the Top 100 Rocky Horror (5.10 a). This climb is truly fun — it combines face climbing with jams, underclings, laybacks, stemming, and a large variety of movement to keep every foot up interesting. It’s well worth the steep, scree-filled hike in (or out).